Gutter Guards in Southfield, MI

Micro-mesh is a fine stainless steel or aluminum screen held flat on a stiff frame that screws to the gutter lip. The holes are much smaller than a standard screen's, so it stops the seeds, pine needles and shingle granules that pass through other guards. HomeGuide notes the trade-off: fine mesh blocks more but clogs more easily, and it lists micro-mesh at $2 to $5 per foot with a 3 to 10+ year life. A clogged mesh is still easier to deal with than a clogged gutter. Leaves sit on top, where a soft brush on a pole clears them, instead of rotting in the trough.

A perforated guard is a flat or slightly crowned aluminum sheet punched with rows of holes. It keeps out whole leaves and needles and lets heavy rain straight through. It costs $0.50 to $2 per foot and lasts 10 to 20+ years, among the longest of any type. The holes are big enough that seeds and grit still reach the gutter, so plan on a hose flush every year or two. This is the sensible middle choice for a yard with big shade trees and no pines.

A reverse-curve guard covers the whole gutter with a solid hood. Its front edge rolls back toward the house. Water clings to the curve by surface tension and drops through a slot into the gutter, while leaves slide off the front. HomeGuide lists hoods at $3.50 to $10 per foot, 10 to 20+ years, and says they usually need professional installation. HomeGuide lists hoods as best for roofs with a mild to moderate slope, since water off a steep roof can run fast enough to overshoot the curve in a heavy rain. Ask how the hood attaches: some styles slip under the first course of shingles, and the shingle manufacturer's instructions decide whether that's allowed.

Screens snap into the gutter with no tools, which is why hardware stores sell them by the box. Plastic screens run $0.50 to $1 per foot with a 3 to 6 year life, and steel screens at $1.50 to $5 with 5 to 10+ years. It recommends powder-coated steel so the screen doesn't rust. A screen sags under wet leaves and fills with seed pods, so it suits a house with few trees close by. For anything heavier, the money goes further on mesh or perforated aluminum.

A guard is only as good as the gutter under it. If the gutter sags between hangers, holds water at the ends, or is pulling away from soft fascia, a guard locks those problems in and makes them harder to see. In that case, replace the gutters and the guards together (see gutter installation), and fix rotted boards first through soffit and fascia repair. A retrofit makes sense when the gutters are seamless, pitched to the downspouts, and solidly fastened. Either way, the guard has to match the gutter width. HomeGuide notes that most residential gutters are 5 or 6 inches.